Travel Guide along the Philosophy Route

The Philosopher’s Path in Kyoto, known in Japanese as “Tetsugaku no michi,” is a picturesque path approximately two kilometers long that follows the course of a canal lined with hundreds of cherry trees. It runs between Ginkaku-ji Temple (Silver Pavilion) and the Nanzen-ji neighborhood. This peaceful path is named after the Japanese philosopher Nishida Kitaro, who is said to have meditated while walking this route on his way to Kyoto University.

What to see on the Philosophy Route

Ginkaku-ji Temple

Ginkaku-ji Temple, also officially known as Jisho-ji, emerges from history as a jewel of Japanese architecture and culture, encapsulating the aesthetic and spiritual quest of a defining period. Located at the foot of Daimonji Mountain, the temple is a living testament to the legacy of Yoshimasa Ashikaga, the eighth shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, whose life is intertwined with the evolution of this historic site. This tour invites us to immerse ourselves in the rich history and beauty of Ginkaku-ji, exploring not only its structures and gardens but also the stories each holds.

The history of Ginkaku-ji is intertwined with that of Jodo-ji Temple, an important site during the Heian period, marked by the influence of the Tendai clan. Over time, this site would transform into Higashiyama-dono under Yoshimasa, setting the stage for what would eventually become Jisho-ji Temple.

Born into power and turbulence, Yoshimasa assumed the mantle of shogun with a passion for art and aesthetics that would define his legacy. Through the construction of Higashiyama-dono, he sought to reflect the simplicity and beauty inherent in Higashiyama culture, a reflection of his worldview and aspiration for beauty.

The transition from Higashiyama-dono to Ginkaku-ji marks a pivotal moment in Japanese cultural history. By choosing this site for his retirement, Yoshimasa not only created a space of immense beauty but also established a center for culture and the arts that would influence Japan for centuries. Ginkaku-ji itself, though never covered in silver, represents Yoshimasa’s appreciation of beauty in its purest form.

Crossing the Somon and walking alongside the Ginkakuji-gaki, one is immersed in a state of readiness, distancing oneself from the outside noise and entering a world where the spiritual and the aesthetic converge in sublime harmony.

Moving on, the journey continues to the Chumon, the Kuri/Daigenkan, and the Shinshoin Academy, spaces that distill the essence of monastic life and the pursuit of knowledge. Here, history intertwines with innovation, offering a window into life within the temple, where every architectural detail and every object tells a story.

The spiritual heart of the temple lies in the Hosyokan and Hojo, where the beauty of Buddhist art is manifest in every sculpture and brushstroke. These spaces serve not only as places of worship but also as guardians of a rich cultural heritage that continues to inspire those who visit them.

The Togudo, declared a National Treasure, is a testament to Yoshimasa’s profound faith and yearning for enlightenment. Surrounded by Zen gardens, this space invites reflection and offers a spiritual retreat from the outside world.

Beyond the structure, the gardens of Ginkaku-ji, with the iconic Silver Pavilion as its centerpiece, unfold in a spectacle of landscape design that captures the essence of Japanese aesthetics. The Ginsyadan and Kogetsudai are not just sand mounds; they are narratives of contemplation and dialogue with nature, designed to guide the eye and spirit toward an appreciation of beauty in its purest form.

The experience is enriched by exploring other lesser-known but equally fascinating features, such as the Sengetsusen waterfall, which provides the sound of flowing water as background music; the Tenbojo Observatory, from which you can enjoy breathtaking views; and places like Sosenteiato and Ochanoi, which offer hidden havens of peace and beauty, waiting to be discovered.

Despite the devastation suffered over the centuries, Ginkaku-ji has been carefully restored and maintained, ensuring that Yoshimasa’s spirit and aesthetic vision continue to inspire visitors from around the world. Reconstruction during the Edo period and subsequent renovations have preserved this site as a bridge between past and present, offering a window into Kyoto’s rich cultural heritage.

Philosopher’s Walk North

North of the Philosopher’s Path, exploration leads you to more cultural and natural wonders, immersing you even further in the city’s rich heritage. Here are some notable attractions north of this famous trail:

First up is Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) Temple: This is an iconic destination located at the northern end of the Philosopher’s Path. Ginkaku-ji, officially known as Jishō-ji, is famous for its beautiful moss garden and silver-plated pavilion, which, interestingly, was never silver-plated. The sand garden next to the pavilion is an excellent example of a Japanese Zen garden, and the gardens surrounding the temple are perfect for a peaceful stroll.

As you walk north from the Philosopher’s Path, especially during spring, you’ll find yourself surrounded by cherry blossoms, creating a magical atmosphere. In autumn, the changing colors of the leaves offer an equally stunning visual spectacle.

Just before reaching Ginkaku-ji, you’ll find Honen-in, a lesser-known but charming temple famous for its two mounds of purified sand. It’s a place of serenity that offers a more intimate experience compared to more touristy sites. It’s often overlooked, making it a hidden gem for those seeking tranquility.

Finally, the Tetsugaku no michi Canal: This path itself is a highlight, with its cherry-tree-lined canal. Walking north, you’ll enter an atmosphere that has inspired thinkers and artists throughout the ages.

Honen Temple

This temple, founded in the 17th century, is a place of serenity and natural beauty, located in the quiet neighborhood of Sakyo-ku, in eastern Kyoto. Honen-in Temple was created to honor Honen, an influential Buddhist monk and founder of the Pure Land school in Japan. His teaching focuses on salvation through the recitation of the name of Amida Buddha. Entering the temple, we appreciate its modest and austere architectural design, typical characteristics of the Pure Land school. Here, in the main hall, we find a statue of Honen, offering a sacred space for prayer and meditation. One of the jewels of Honen-in Temple is its magnificent moss garden, which extends over a wide area behind the main hall. This beautiful garden, with gentle hills covered in green moss and ancient trees, provides an atmosphere of tranquility and serenity, making it a popular place for meditation and contemplation. Honen-in Temple is also famous for its spectacular autumn scenery, when the surrounding trees are adorned with warm colors of red and gold maple leaves, creating an enchanting and magical atmosphere for those who visit. Thanks to its location in a quiet, less crowded area of Kyoto, Honen-in Temple offers its visitors an experience of peace and serenity away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It is the perfect place for those seeking contemplation, spiritual connection, and appreciation of natural beauty. Honen-in Temple is a true hidden treasure in Kyoto, Japan. With its modest design, moss garden, and serene atmosphere, it provides visitors with a space for meditation and spiritual connection. Don’t hesitate to explore this beautiful temple and immerse yourself in its calm and spiritual atmosphere.

Philosopher’s Walk South

The Philosopher’s Walk, or Tetsugaku no Michi, is a path of approximately 2 kilometers, which connects the Ginkakuji Temple with the Nakaoji Shrine, near Nanzenji, is much more than a simple path: it is a journey through the history, culture and natural beauty of Japan.

The Philosopher’s Walk is named after Kitaro Nishida, a renowned philosophy professor at Kyoto University, who found this path the perfect setting for his morning meditations. Accompanying strollers is the canal that runs parallel to the path, part of a larger project to bring water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto, a Meiji-era engineering achievement. It was built not only to supply drinking water but also to power Japan’s first hydroelectric plant, marking a milestone in Kyoto’s industrial and urban development.

This canal is not only a triumph of hydraulic engineering, once powering Japan’s first hydroelectric plant, but also the canvas for a living landscape, especially during the cherry blossom season, donated by painter Kansetsu Hashimoto, transforming the site into a hanami spectacle.

It is said that Kansetsu, deeply inspired by the beauty of the place, wanted to contribute to its splendor so that future generations could also find inspiration and peace among the cherry blossoms. This connection between art, nature, and generosity has left an indelible mark on the landscape and in the hearts of those who visit the trail.

The Philosopher’s Walk begins near Eikando, flanked by peaceful cafes and restaurants where you can pause to fully absorb the atmosphere. Although the walk can be completed in about 30 minutes, we encourage you to take it easy, explore nearby temples and shrines, such as Otoyo and Honenin, and enjoy the serenity the walk offers.

During spring, the path fills with spectators who come to admire the cherry blossoms. In addition to its natural beauty, the Philosopher’s Walk is dotted with poetry and art, with Kitaro’s verses carved into stones along the path, and a population of friendly cats adding a touch of everyday life to the landscape.

For those looking to avoid the crowds during hanami, we recommend visiting after sunset or during June, when the route is less crowded. Despite the rainy season, this period offers a unique opportunity to enjoy the trail in peace.

Along the way, be sure to visit the architectural and natural gems along the way: Ginkaku-ji Temple, Hakusason-so Village, Otoyo-jinja Shrine with its mouse-shaped stone guardians, and Hōnen-in, with its artistically raked sand mounds. Eikando, at the end of the path, offers not only a rich history but also stunning views of Kyoto.

Otoyo Shrine

Steeped in Japan’s rich history and spirituality, Otoyo Shrine honors venerable mountain spirits, particularly Tsubakimine, a prominent mountain peak among Higashiyama’s 36 sacred peaks. Its founding is attributed to Fujiwara Yoshiko, a prominent samurai at the Imperial Palace, who dedicated the shrine to the deity Sukohikona no Mikoto, located in a privileged location east of the Kyoto Imperial Palace.

According to legend, Sukohikona collaborated with Okuninushi, another deity, in building the country and introducing healing techniques and medical knowledge to humanity. Together, these two gods are said to have played crucial roles in pacifying the land and establishing order and civilization.

The shrine is dedicated to Okuninushi, a hero who made the mistake of falling in love with the daughter of the storm god. During his search for her father’s approval, he was tricked into going to a field of reeds in search of an arrow, but found himself caught in a blaze. At that critical moment, a mouse helped him find a hiding place and brought him the arrow when it was safe to do so. His connection with mice has been immortalized, and two mice guard the shrine. One assists with birth and the other with education, making the shrine a sought-after place for both expectant families and school-aged children.

Since its inception, the shrine has undergone several transformations, beginning its history as Tsubakigamine Tenjin Mountain and later evolving into Taiho Daimyojin, earning the respect and devotion of the spiritual aristocracy and eminent figures, including Asano, an 18th-century Japanese historical figure famous for being the daimyo whose forced commission of seppuku (ritual suicide) led to the 47-renin incident, one of Japan’s most famous stories of loyalty and revenge.

His role as protector of Enjo-ji Temple led to its relocation to a site deemed perfectly suitable for spiritual pilgrimage. During the reign of Emperor Kannin, around 1017, the shrine was honored with a new location and the divine title of Taitoyo Daimyojin, marking a period of flourishing and significant territorial expansion.

His role as protector of Enjo-ji Temple led to its relocation to a site deemed perfectly suitable for spiritual pilgrimage. During the reign of Emperor Kannin, around 1017, the shrine was honored with a new location and the divine title of Taitoyo Daimyojin, marking a period of flourishing and significant territorial expansion.

The practice of prayer at Otoyo Shrine takes place as a profound act of gratitude for life’s blessings, and at the same time, as a hope for future happiness. The purifying water, called “gojin water,” emanating from Mount Tsubakigamine, symbolizes a heavenly connection, inviting visitors to purify their souls and minds in pursuit of profound purity and gratitude.

Under the “Korezami no Michi” philosophy, the shrine promotes a holistic approach to wellness, emphasizing the importance of mental and physical health, lifelong learning, and the appreciation of human life. This approach encourages visitors to reflect on the meaning of their existence, the importance of gratitude toward ancestors and deities, and the role of each individual in perpetuating these sacred blessings.

The shrine’s lush flora, including its renowned camellias and the unique Rakuchu weeping red plum blossoms, adds a touch of calm and beauty, creating an environment conducive to spiritual reflection.

The Ujigami Festival, celebrated on May 4, is a cultural event that preserves ancient traditions through purification rituals and religious parades, reaffirming the community’s commitment to its spiritual roots.

Before entering the shrine, visitors must purify their body and mind at the Temizuya (chozuya), following a cleansing ritual that includes washing their hands and mouth, a symbolic act of purification before proceeding to worship. This preparatory rite is essential to respect the sanctity of the space and prepare for communication with the divine.

When passing through the torii gate, it is recommended to walk along the edges, avoiding the center, as a sign of respect for the path of the gods. At the main shrine and subsidiary shrines, visitors can offer their prayers, following specific etiquette that includes two bows, two claps, and a final heartfelt prayer, culminating in a final bow. This process is not only an act of devotion but also a moment of personal connection with the sacred.

Eikan

The temple was founded in 853 and has been rebuilt several times over the centuries. One of the main attractions here is its beautiful moss garden, considered one of the finest in all of Japan. In this garden, you can appreciate a wide variety of plants and trees, including the beautiful Japanese maples that turn red and gold during the fall. The temple’s main building, called Amida-do, houses a very important statue of Amida Buddha. This statue is considered a valuable work of religious art. Additionally, you can explore other buildings and gardens during your visit, as well as enjoy an authentic tea experience in the temple’s tea room. Eikan-do Temple is especially popular during the fall, when the colors of the foliage create a stunning landscape. Many visitors come here to contemplate the beautiful Japanese maples that surround the area. Enjoy the serenity and natural beauty offered by this historic temple in Kyoto, Japan. Have a wonderful time exploring Eikan-do Temple!

Eikan Temple

A beautiful shrine located south of the Philosopher’s Path in Kyoto, Japan. Officially called Muryojuin Zenrinji, this temple is the heart of the Seizan Zenrinji school of the Pure Land sect of Buddhism. Today, Eikando Temple is a favorite destination for Kyoto residents during momiji, the stunning change of leaf color in autumn. However, due to its location on the slopes of Higashiyama Mountain, its beauty is dazzling at any time of year. The history of this place dates back to 853 during the Heian period. A former court nobleman decided to gift these lands, where he used to rest, to the Buddhist abbot Shinjo. Struck by the natural beauty of the area, Shinjo built a hall for practicing the esoteric Buddhism of the Shingon sect. Over the centuries, the temple has endured difficult times, such as destruction during the Onin War. However, it was gradually rebuilt and expanded, giving rise to the magnificent complex we can admire today. Entering the temple through the Yakui-mon gate, dating from 1713, you will enter a world of impressive halls, gardens with ponds, and a pagoda. The Shaka-do Hall, also known as Hojo Hall, stands out for its shoin-zukuri architecture, and the Zuishi-den Hall houses the statue of “Amida, Protector of Fire.” The most enigmatic and striking image of the temple is the “Mikaeri Amida Nyorai,” the smiling Amida Buddha looking back, according to the legend of his meeting with Abbot Eikan. Climbing the Garyuro wooden stairs, which resemble the shape of a sleeping dragon, you will reach the impressive two-story pagoda, enshrining the images of Shaka Nyorai and Taho Nyorai. From here, you can enjoy panoramic views of the beautiful city of Kyoto. The temple gardens are covered with moss and maple trees that turn red in autumn, creating an unforgettable scene. Pay attention to the sculpture of Yasuragi Kannon, a deity believed to protect the children in the temple’s nearby nursery. Also, in Hojo Pond, various streams join together to form a charming natural spectacle.

Nanzen Temple

Welcome to Nanzen-ji Temple, an impressive and extensive complex belonging to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, located in eastern Kyoto, more precisely in the Higashiyama district. This temple is a must-see on our tour of the northern part of this Kyoto district. Nanzen-ji Temple stands out for its magnificent San-mon Gate and its distinctive red brick aqueduct, both of which are renowned worldwide. It is also the main seat of the Nanzen-ji school of Zen Buddhism and houses numerous structures and sub-temples. Within the complex, you will find valuable cultural treasures, such as the temple’s main gates, the Chokushi-mon Gate, and the aforementioned San-mon Gate. Also noteworthy are the paintings on the traditional fusuma sliding doors, created by renowned artists of the Kano school during the 16th century. The Hojo Lecture Hall is another national treasure not to be missed. Furthermore, the adjacent garden was designed by Enshu Kobori, a famous painter, poet, ikebana and tea ceremony master, and garden designer in the 17th and 18th centuries. His talent is also reflected in the gardens of the Sento Imperial Palace, the Katsura Imperial Villa, and several famous castles. Nanzen-ji Temple, formally known as Zenrin-ji, was built in 1291 by Emperor Kameyama. Legend has it that the emperor had a summer palace on this site, which was supposedly haunted. To rid himself of the spirits, the emperor turned to the Zen monk Fumon, who meditated in the palace and successfully drove the ghosts away. Pleased with the results, the emperor donated a portion of his palace complex to Zen Buddhism for the practice of meditation. However, this led to some conflict with the warrior monks of Mount Hiei, as a second place of worship was established. Over the years, the temple has been damaged by fires on several occasions, being rebuilt and expanded in 1597. Despite this, due to its vast area, it has undergone changes over time. Although not considered one of the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto (Kyoto Gozan), which include Tenryu-ji in Arashiyama, Shokoku-ji, Kennin-ji, Tofuku-ji near Fushimi Inari, and Maju-ji, Nanzen-ji plays a fundamental role as the head temple of the group, even though it is not formally recognized as one of them. According to the philosophy of Zen Buddhism, Nanzen-ji is considered superior to all others, occupying a special and exclusive position.

Philosophy Route Travel Guide